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Thanks! Nice project, I have seen your video with non-circular boring for your modification, very intersting! Keep up the good work.

Hi, yes S1000 M3 works fine. It is exactly the same syntax that I am using.

Hi, thanks for leaving a comment. Soldering is not my specialty indeed. I am using solder with flux built in and thought that this would suffice, but it is good to know that separate flux is better for soldering larger parts, thanks for the tip.

Hi, unfortunately I am not aware of the history of this lathe. Maybe a previous owner swapped out some parts. From the lead screw I did not get the feeling that it was not original though, since I did not see any modified parts to accommodate a different design. But I am not sure. Could also be a different "revision" compared to your lathe.

Hi James, good question. I am not sure what the actual gearing ratio on my pulleys is, so I can't calculate the exact steps per revolution. One way to do this is to count teeth on each pulley, but I just measured the output on the axis, similar to what you did. In the SZGH controller you can add any virtual "gearing ratio" to correct the output so it measures the input distance in your program. The virtual ratio has an integer input for the numerator denominator of this ratio, so I just multiplied both by 1000, effectively giving me 3 decimals to fine tune. The x axis is a round number (8 to 1) with 10000 microsteps per rev. The z axis is not with 6440/1000 for 8000 microsteps per rev. Anyway, the numbers are not important really. The only important thing is that it can be adjusted. Hope this helps.

Thanks! Interestingly they also used bearings with a shield on only one side, with the other side open, which can't be reached to lubricate it. So I just went with the double shielded type.

@@uptimefab7412 Yeah that is weird. I guess they figured since the other side was in a sealed area it couldn't be contaminated. Maybe they were planning on making that area greasable which would explain wanting the outside to be shielded and then just never did or changed the design and never changed the bearing type

Ha, that would be an advanced heat shrinking exercise. Anyway the connector is closed now, no one will ever know...

Hi, if I understand correctly after google-translate, you are wondering what diameter wire I used for the signal wires from the DDCS to the stepper drivers. These can be very small, I used 0.14mm^2. However, this is not advisable, since even with the smallest ferrule it is difficult to get them securely tightened, so the ferrule stays in place. For a later build (my lathe) I used the larger 0.34mm^2 wire for signal wires. Much easier to work with and ferrules are more securely tightened. Note that I do not know what the industry standard is, this is just what I use. Also i would like to note that for the wires going to the stepper motors I am using much thicker wire (0.75mm^2) since they carry high current.

@@uptimefab7412 very grateful, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge, my best regards to you to carry out your projects and continue helping with your knowledge, please, if it is not too much to ask, can I bother you? in the future to complete my project, I also want you to know that I am copying your project, I hope you are not offended, I am very new to this, I do it to learn in my free time, your project is an example for many people who want to learn , I am from Argentina, here it is very difficult for me to get the materials you used, but I am getting it little by little, when I have it finished I will show it to you and share it with you, I hope it turns out well, congratulations and thank you very much again, for everything, sorry If something was translated wrong, I'm using the translator, good luck

Never realized that this would be possible, would save a lot of effort. Thanks for the tip!

@@uptimefab7412 Talked to an old guy who has the manual version of this .machine. He have been doing it 30 years this way

Hi, I cannot measure the diameter under the dust cover, but it should be 8mm. Also dimensions like pitch can be derived from the ball nut. Spec for that is in one of the other comments and also on te website article at uptimefab.com. click "continue reading" under the video link on my website.

@@uptimefab7412 No problem, thank you so much.

Hi, you could just use the same wiring as in the schematic for the closed loop motor driver and copy that for other closed loop stepper drivers.

I love your work, it helped me a lot to fix my Emco mini lathe

Hi, I have not removed any questions. Strange... I did get a question yesterday about where to buy the ball nut and when I wanted to answer it, the question was already gone. Sometimes people remove their own comment but I still have the notification, so I thought that was the case. Was that your question? If so, here is the link: store.boschrexroth.com/Linear-Motion-Technology/Screw-drives/Ball-screw-assemblies/Ball-screw-nuts/BALL-NUT_R153223002?cclcl=en_HR#&cartId=ba21b2e4-6c86-4339-bc26-3287e1885d3c&reloaded=true

@@uptimefab7412 Yes that was my questions, thank you. Strange :D Maybe RUclips removed it for some reason. Now i check your other videos and you put link there to the forum for Emco users, Thank you for that too, that is great!

@@NMCFPV RUclips removes a ton of comments lately - if you post a link and are not the video owner, it will be removed. Sometimes it's removed for seemingly no reason

The lathe indeed has some vintage vibes.

Thanks for visiting the channel!

Thanks for the tip!

Thanks for the tip! These look like some nice general use end support bearing blocks. I'll have a look at this if I ever want to replace the bearings on the fixed side (and can't get them out).

Yes indeed, mooi spul. (het kleine oude Skandia tangetje is ook erg handig)

Hi I am not sure which axis you are having issues with. You mention "rotate" but then also mm/min. Could you ley me know if the issue is with the turret, spindle or X/axis?

Hi, I just sent the CAD model including STL per email.

@@uptimefab7412 tnx you very much :D

Hi, thank you, I am typically using LAPP cables for this type of application. They have all sorts of variants ( shielded/not shielded, wire thickness and wire quantity). The button is a generic momentary contact button. Can't recall where I bought this specific one, but they are sold at many stores like Conrad or Reichelt in Europe.

Yes, my guess would also be that it is just rounding the display value but uses the actual resolution. Since there are also versions of this controller with a 4th axis (C) it would not make sense to round to full degrees. For threading that would probably be fine though.

@@uptimefab7412 Thank you for the reply. Great machine build and video series by the way! 👍

Hi, for the MG400 the vacuum pump is a separate accessory as some customers would only use a gripper and in that case don't need a vacuum pump. It is not the same as the one for Magician. It has different connections and is physically a different type.

@uptimefab7412 Thanks for the response. One would assume that they would provide a vacuum generator as only a suction cup was provided, not the gripper arm as you mentioned.

Sorry I might not have explained this very well. What I meant is that I received a vacuum cup with the demo unit, not that it is typically included with th MG400. Also, what is or is not included might differ per country and dealer, so make sure to check before buying.

I have received the same mg400 kit (same packaging list card you showed), so maybe it's the default? Will have to buy the extra vacuum pump then in the future 🤷‍♂️

Hi, it can simulate the tool path, but no full stock removal simulation. So just a 2D line graph of where the tool tip travels.

Thanks for your comment. A number of other people have mentioned this. There is a lot of conflicting information about this topic. I know hobbyists do it and I have also seen commercially available equipment with the VFD inside the same cabinet as other electronics. There is of course the risk of EMI and heat dissipation. When these are mitigated it should be possible. However, I have no reliable way to measure EMI but heat dissipation is fine in my case. So that leaves us with that it is not possible as an amateur/hobbyist to determine if there will be issues with EMI. I would therefore not recommend other people to do this, but this is what I am doing and so far it worked. If you have any links to where people can find information on EMI guidelines for VFDs it would be greatly appreciated. Best, Robin

@uptimefab7412 you can buy EMF readers. Generally, people do YT to help and don't intentionally want to mislead people, but the problem with the Internet is that people can come across as though they know what they are talking about. It's difficult to find genuine experts. Even suppliers' kits, especially from China, are poorly put together. Kits with individual PSUs for each stepper should be avoided. It is better to have 1 larger PSU and get one with built-in RFI suppression. Ideally, you want to keep your high and low voltage circuits away from each other as much as possible.

I hope that I did not come across as a professional. Indeed there is a lot of information by non-experts and I may have just added some more myself. I think it is good to keep in mind that all of this project is hobby level stuff. This includes the electronics but also the router itself. Having said this, I have searched extensively for wiring practices and EMI design rules. There seem to be a lot of things that work and on the other hand there are many experts that say how things should be done (mostly without source) referring to how it is done in industrial equipment. Since I am not able to find the answers online I went with what was the most practical solution and made it work with what I have. This is also my way of working in a hobby project, not recommend to others. I have found many articles saying that the VFD can or should be put in a separate enclosure in case of issues (no references to standards prescribing this requirement). But also a lot of people just placing the VFD in the same enclosure. I just took the practical approach to place it in the same enclosure if I don't experience issues, which I don't. Also not with my lathe, where the VFD is also in the same cabinet. Thanks for the tip on the EMF meter. Looks like great equipment for troubleshooting. Many videos about paranormal stuff, so I would also have to find my way to good information there. Sorry for the long-winded answer. This actually means I don't have a good answer :).

@@uptimefab7412 Yes, a lot of Chinese CNC machines are very poorly built with the VFD in the case.

Hi, sorry I don't have a lot of time to make videos currently, so I can't do request videos. The G76 command has quite a lot of parameters. Hope you can make it work with the manual. I have not manually programmed threads using G76. I only used G32 or as output from fusion360.

Thanks for your comment, much appreciated. The cabinet is the Famatel 39145. If you need info to other parts they should all be listed in my website article linked in the description. Somewhere in the Middle of the article. Best, Robin

This could have many possible causes, but it might be good to start checking if the pin out of the program is the same as the physical connections. Did you try running the display with a simple example program? This could eliminate hardware or wiring issues as a cause.

@@uptimefab7412 Thank you for your reply. I have solved this problem now. Can I ask you about visual calibration again? My side now displays---The calibration mode fails to start

Hi, if I understand correctly from google-translate, you would like to download the software to control the MG400, which is DobotStudio Pro. This software can be found via link below. Make sure to click the "more" button to actually see the full list. Also you first need to create an account to download, which is free. Link: www.dobot-robots.com/service/download-center?keyword=&data_type%5B%5D=2

@@uptimefab7412 very good my friend, yesterday I can download the software. Tomorrow Monday in the word make the proyect

Hi, not sure, never tried cutting the power during a program.

Thanks for the tip! Even when moving away from the 3-jaw, accurately reclamping an eccentric holder doesn't help :)

Hi, I prefer not having a laptop connected to the machine when it is running. This typically means using an old laptop (dusty environment). It then also depends on a USB connection. Also I just like having a dedicated controller. Other people might prefer Mach3. There are pros and cons to both, for hobby use I think it is based on personal preference.

Bedankt!

Hoi, dat zijn mooie machines, leuk project! Ik heb van SZGH alleen een macro voorbeeld gekregen voor mijn turret waarbij ik zelf de posities tel in de macro. Normaal gesproken is de controller ingericht op 1 signaal per tool positie, ook dat werkt inderdaad niet in jouw situatie. In de macro zou je volgens mij wel de 4 bits kunnen inlezen en dan omzetten naar een tool nummer. Helaas heb ik daar geen voorbeeld van. Ik kan je wel helpen aan de manuals die ik van SZGH heb gekregen m.b.t. macro's en PLC. Stuur me even een bericht in het contact form van mijn website Uptimefab.com, dan heb ik je mailadres. Ik zal per ommegaande toesturen wat ik heb. Daarnaast zou ik je aanraden een mail te sturen naar SZGH en uitleggen wat voor machine en type turret je hebt. Ze hebben vast wel een voorbeeld waarmee je kunt starten. Scheelt weer wat uitzoekwerk. Gr, Robin

Thanks for the tip! This indeed seems like a great solution. I might give this a try. The fan is really noisy and most of the time the spindle is off when making a couple of small parts. Of course this is hacking a cooling system on existing equipment so I would not recommend this to others, but without making a video about it I would not mind giving this a try once.

Hi, the turret board is the original Emco part. I did not make a new one.

Thank you for your advice, much appreciated!

@@uptimefab7412 no problem. Glad someone could learn something from me!

Sure, they are listed in the pdf document which can be found in the website article, linked in the description of the video. The pdf contains links to all parts used in this retrofit.

Sure, it is included in the web site article linked in the description. Somewhere in the middel of that article you will find a pdf with all the details.

Yes, I have set the max rpm for the spindle to 3000 rpm after replacing the bearings. The pulley ratio I am using is not exactly 1:1 from motor to spindle but let's say the motor runs at least at 100Hz. I would have to get to the back of the lathe and look at the vfd setting, since that is how the rpm is calibrated, but this the rough number. Note that I am typically only going up to 2500 rpm for no specific reason other than noise. I should be running the lathe even higher than 3000 for small brass parts, but it mostly cuts fine at 2500 rpm already.

@@uptimefab7412 thanks for the info

Thanks!

That is indeed a lot more efficient. I thought about this method as well, but I did not have a drill of 0.4 mm that could reach through the largest hole. My 0.4 drill has a 3mm shank.